Off the Menu
Michael Cecchi-Azzolina opens his own place in the West Village, the 11 Howard Hotel adds La Rubia and more restaurant news.

Headliner
Nasrin’s Kitchen
Nasrin Rejali, who arrived from Iran by way of Istanbul in 2016, cooked for Eat Offbeat, a catering company that employs refugees. In 2020 she started Nasrin’s Kitchen, a catering company in Queens, and is now opening a restaurant to showcase her Persian cooking just steps from Bergdorf Goodman and Tiffany & Co. On the second floor of the space that housed Betony, and a couple of Russian restaurants before that, the dining room decorated with traditional Persian touches has about 60 seats. It’s the setting for dishes like kashk badmejon, sautéed eggplant; ash reshteh, a Persian noodle soup with vegetables; basmati rice dishes (chelo) with beef stew, chicken or ground meat; and assorted kebabs often fragrant with saffron and other seasonings. Ms. Rejali said she plans to do the cooking. Her son Arta Kasra will handle the management side of the business. The restaurant has a bar and will serve mostly beer and wine.
35 West 57th Street, 917-261-4600, nasrinskitchen.com.
Opening
Cecchi’s Bar and Grill
Michael Cecchi-Azzolina, who has been stationed at the front of the house at such places as Raoul’s and Le Coucou, is about to take his years of experience recounted in his recent flagrant tell-all, “Your Table Is Ready,” to his own restaurant in the former Café Loup space. He’s inspired by traditional New York names like Elaine’s and Mortimer’s. The chef, Cesar Balderas, will turn out steaks, chops and seafood along with throwbacks like chicken à la king, crab Louis and calves liver with bacon and onions. There’s a bar with Art Deco touches and a dining room with fanciful carnivalesque murals. (Opens Saturday)
105 West 13th Street, 212-931-6335, cecchis.nyc.
La Rubia
The 11 Howard Hotel, home to Le Coucou, has welcomed another dining option on the Howard Street side of the building. Andres Diaz, a restaurateur who also owns Her Name Was Carmen in SoHo, has opened this casual, Latin-inflected seafood spot. It features an open kitchen and banquettes with the former green headboards from the Gramercy Park Hotel as backs. A chandelier is the work of the artist Julian Schnabel. The chef, Lucas Harrell — a San Francisco native with Cuban roots who worked at Coi, Petit Crenn and, in New York, at the Musket Room and Francie — is tasked with producing breakfast, lunch and dinner. Menu highlights include ceviches, a seafood tower called the “grand Rubia,” crab and endive salad, and halibut poached in olive oil. The singular dessert is a flan, from the chef’s grandmother’s recipe.
11 Howard Hotel, 11 Howard Street (Lafayette Street), 347-429-1114, larubianyc.com.
Maison Sun
A little over a year ago, Carlos Gasperi, a sommelier and a former scholar of German literature who had been doing rotating dinners, found a somewhat more permanent space in SoHo for his dinner series with various chefs, notably Brendan Skibar. Now in a high-end kitchen counter setting in Brooklyn that had been the Chef’s Table at Brooklyn Fare, but now redone, the executive chef, Michael Brogan, who worked at the Modern and Momofuku Ko in New York and the Fat Duck in England, presents a nine-course tasting menu for $198. Starting with foie gras and continuing with luxuries like sea urchin, caviar, morels, dry-aged Rohan duck and optional Wagyu, it reflects a Japanese and French approach to fine dining.
200-3 Schermerhorn Street (Boerum Place), Boerum Hill, Brooklyn, 917-790-9689, maisonsunnyc.com.
SoFun Kitchen
Chao Wang, whose sleek East Village restaurant, Hunan Slurp, was awarded two stars nearly five years ago by Pete Wells in The New York Times, has opened a noodle-centric sibling in Queens. The name is derived from “suo fen,” meaning slurp noodles, so slurping is the sport on display with mifen rice noodles playing center. The food is Hunan and also includes dim sum, small plates like shiso cucumber, clay pot wonton soup, and, for dessert, a durian puff pastry.
43-40 12th Street (43rd Road), Long Island City, Queens, 347-527-1529, order.toastab.com.
Terra Mediterrania
Chelsea now has this takeaway spot, with some seating, for sandwiches (kataifi chicken, shawarma chicken wrap), bowls (ancient grains with vegetables, brussels sprouts with faro and short ribs), salads and flatbreads. (Wednesday)
124 Seventh Avenue (18th Street), terra-ny.com.
Outdoor Bar at Tin Building
Jean-Georges Vongerichten has added this open-air oasis for bubbly on tap, wine, beer, cocktails and sandwiches, like jambon-beurre and mortadella with provolone, to the market building’s dining options.
96 South Street at Pier 17 (Beekman Street), tinbuilding.com.
Loulou La Plage
With new owners, the centuries-old Maidstone Hotel also has a new restaurant. In April, Irwin D. Simon and Mayank Dwivedi, who recently switched focus from finance to hotels, bought the Maidstone. They have brought in Mino Habib and Mathias Van Leyden of MVLH Hospitality Group, the owners of Loulou Petit Bistro, in Chelsea, to run the dining room, its adjacent bar and garden.. Mr. Van Leyden has brought in one of his chefs, Eric Bergman, to recreate many of the bistro classics served in New York, like onion soup, escargots, croque monsieur, duck confit, roast chicken, steak au poivre and tarte Tatin.
207 Main Street (Mill Hill Lane), East Hampton, N.Y., 631-324-5006, themaidstone.com.
Nat’s Mountain House
Natalie Freihon, whose Strange Bird Hospitality has three restaurants in Manhattan, has opened this restaurant in the Catskills inspired by the many summer camps for which the region has long been known. New American fare like French onion dip, pakora-fried radishes, whole trout for two, spicy spaghetti, a cheeseburger, a falafel burger, roast chicken and devil’s-food cake are on the menu.
6589 NY 23-A (Bloomer Road), Tannersville, N.Y., 518-628-4478, natsmountainhouse.com.
Branches
Brooklyn Dumpling Shop
This is the eighth outlet for Stratis Morfogen’s growing chain of automated creative dumpling shops. There’s beer, wine and outdoor seating at this address. Mr. Morfogen expects to add about a dozen more locations this year and has also signed a deal with Sitewise Solutions to open about 100 more franchises in Canada.
453 East 78th Street, 917-475-1580, brooklyndumplingshop.com.
Carnegie Diner & Cafe
This diner-style restaurant with a location on West 57th Street, and another in Secaucus, N.J., has opened in the former Thalia space in the theater district.
828 Eighth Avenue (50th Street), 212-399-4444, carnegiediner.com.
Milu
With the original restaurant in NoMad running for nearly three years, a second counter-service location has opened with a casual Chinese menu by the chef and partner Connie Chung, with Vincent Chao and Milan Sekulic. Beer, wine and sake are available.
235 Kent Avenue (North First Street), Williamsburg, Brooklyn, eatmilu.com.
Chefs on the Move
Camille Becerra
The Puerto Rico-born chef, known for stints at Navy and De Maria in Manhattan, will oversee the food at the Ace Hotel Brooklyn as the chef and a partner. She is creating the menus for the Lobby Bar, room service and special events, and she is collaborating with the executive chef, Michael King, and the pastry chef, Danny Alvarez, on the menu at As You Are.
Rose Noel
The former executive chef, who worked with Marcus Samuelsson at Hav & Mar in Chelsea, is now the executive chef at Peak, the restaurant on the 101st floor of 30 Hudson Yards, replacing Chris Cryer.
Closed for Now
I Sodi
After 15 years dishing her memorable artichoke lasagna and other Tuscan specialties in a shoe box on Christopher Street, Rita Sodi has closed the restaurant and will reopen in a few weeks in a more spacious location on Bleecker Street. Jody Williams, Ms. Sodi’s wife and partner at Via Carota, Bar Pisellino and Commerce Inn, said the new location will have “more elbow room” and a garden. Reservations are now being accepted online.
314 Bleecker Street (Grove Street), 212-414-5774, isodinyc.com.
Marea
The lavish seafood-forward Italian restaurant from the Altamarea Group has closed for renovations and plans to reopen in September. In the meantime, a number of its menu items are on the menu at Ai Fiori, the group’s restaurant in the Langham Hotel.
400 Fifth Avenue (36th Street), 212-613-8660, aifiorinyc.com.
Follow New York Times Cooking on Instagram, Facebook, YouTube, TikTok and Pinterest. Get regular updates from New York Times Cooking, with recipe suggestions, cooking tips and shopping advice.
A correction was made on
June 28, 2023
:
An earlier version of this article misspelled the surname of the owner of Nat’s Mountain House. She is Natalie Freihon, not Freihorn. The article also misspelled the website for Terra Mediterrania. It is terra-ny.com, not terra-nyc.com.
How we handle corrections
Florence Fabricant is a food and wine writer. She writes the weekly Front Burner and Off the Menu columns, as well as the Pairings column, which appears alongside the monthly wine reviews. She has also written 12 cookbooks.